Chefs Collaborative

I had maybe seen a lionfish in a home aquarium and not paid a lot of attention to it – I’m afraid that when I go to the big commercial sea zoos I have a tendency to focus on all the tasty creatures I’ve cooked over the years. The lionfish was a small exotic and poisonous to boot so I had little interest.

Depending on what story you believe these guys escaped into the wild on Florida’s east coast during Hurricane Andrew in 1992. Due to their array of poisonous spines, other fish aren’t interested in eating them. So they They prospered and multiplied, and unfortunately for the rest of the reef fish, they are voracious feeders and their populations are now a real problem.

The upside – they’re delicious. Enter the ultimate predator – humans.

I was approached by John Perriccio, the president of Southbend equipment manufacturing to see if I’d be interested in cooking for a “lionfish rodeo” he was organizing in Delray Beach Fla. I had always wanted to learn scuba diving so I took the whirlwind three day course but unfortunately couldn’t get open water certified before the event. Probably a good thing because when I got there, I already had a couple of hundred small fish to butcher. Four hours later I gave up and started cooking an evening buffet for 100 divers. I invited the owner of Triar Seafood in Hollywood, Peter Jarvis, to come by and meet some possible suppliers and taste the fish. He told me there was a chef in Charleston who had asked for them.

The two day event produced 735 fish ranging in size from 4 to 18 inches with the average size being about 8 to 10. The divers clipped the top spines and after filleting a hundred or so I started scaling them for whole cooking. To me they taste a lot like another reef fish, hog snapper. They have a creamy colored dense white meat and lend themselves well to a variety of cooking methods.

So—lionfish are interesting, tasty, and eating them has a real positive impact on the reef environment. The problem will be getting them to market, mainly due to the harvesting method which is hand spearing one at a time.
Divers in my neck of the woods can go out and spear a limit of two cobia (20-40 pounds each) which they can sell to a wholesaler for 2.50-3.00 a pound and maybe make enough for gas and air, etc so it can make financial sense for all concerned. I get a fish 12 hours or less out of the water and everyone’s happy.

In the case of the lion fish, the amount of weight per fish is maybe an average of 10 ounces so a diver would have to be dedicated to get enough to make it economically feasible.(At this time no one has proposed a bounty, which would be a great way to subsidize this process.) The wholesaler has to get enough fish to make it worth his while to pick them up and then be able to airship it for an additional 2.00 or so a pound to me, and I have to be willing to take a lot of mixed size small fish and then have to menu them at a profit. So unless you live very close by the source, they aren’t going to be cheap.

I am planning another trip to Florida when I get open water certified next month and hope to personally spear a bunch of these guys.

—Tenney Flynn, executive chef, GW Fins, New Orleans

How does the MyGulfWild work?

Gulf Wild™ is a  program of the Gulf of Mexico Reef Fish Shareholders’ Alliance, a 501c(6) trade association that represents fishermen and associated dealers who provide consumers year-round access to high-quality, responsibly-caught seafood. Our mission is to unify and strengthen the reef fish industry to develop a sustainable resource through the use of individual fishing quotas (IFQ’s) — also known as catch shares. Alliance members agree to specific measures called Conservation Covenants that focus on the reducing by-catch, protecting the marine environment, and improving safety. These covenants enhance the economic value of the fishery and reward responsible fishing practices.

The key to Gulf Wild™ is a fish tracking component that allows the buyer to “find my fish.” Each Gulf Wild™ fish is marked with a sequentially numbered gill tag just minutes after it is brought on board. When the catch reaches shore, the tag number is electronically recorded with the unique credentials of its fish. That data is displayed via myGulfWild.com, a website where wholesalers, retailers, and consumers can enter their unique tag number see where their fish was caught on an interactive map and even learn information about the vessel and captain.

What are the benefits of the gill tag and tracking process for the consumer? What about for the fishermen?

Americans are increasingly curious (if not concerned) about where and by whom their seafood is caught. Recent media stories have exposed fraudulent labeling schemes and, of course, questions persist about the effects of last year’s Deepwater Horizon explosion. It was the right time to launch a brand with transparent systems to track individual fish to its actual harvesting vessel and catch locations. If any system could remove doubt surrounding Gulf seafood, Gulf Wild™ seems to be it!

Our trackable Gulf Wild™ tags act as a seal of sustainability and provide guardianship of our brand. Because tags follow our fish from boat to buyer, we’re ensuring profitability throughout the distribution chain in new ways. We are positioning ourselves to open new markets as the fishery populations rebound.  All across the United States, communities are strengthening their connections to “local food” and “local farming”. Because the fish are tagged and can be linked back to individual fishermen, they have a strong incentive to ensure quality product, which will lead to profitability and differentiation in the marketplace.

Where did this idea stem from/how did this idea come about?

This concept has been in the minds and works of Alliance fishermen for quite a while. To keep fishing communities in the Gulf of Mexico viable following the Deepwater Horizon explosion last year, proactive fishermen in the region put into action the sophisticated program to safely inspect fish harvests, stabilize or sustain the resource with advanced conservation practices, and provide a transparent view of each fish’s original harvest location, vessel and fisherman. The program, called Gulf Wild™, is first and foremost a consumer confidence initiative forged to promote safely-inspected, genuine and sustainably harvested fish from the Gulf of Mexico.

How does this support sustainable fisheries?

Gulf Wild™ is a conservation-focused program that contributes — in several ways — to the long-term health and abundance of its namesake iconic fishery. First, all Gulf Wild™ fishermen participate in a catch-share program, a resource management approach that gives fishermen incentive to catch fish responsibly.

Nearly two decades of research shows that catch share programs reduce the likelihood of fishery depletion, increase participants’ compliance with catch limits, reduce by-catch (unintentionally harvested fish), and help reduce high-grading (tossing of low value fish) and discards (of dead or dying unwanted fish). Additionally, Gulf Wild™ fishermen agree to a strict set of resource-oriented “Conservation Covenants” that extend far beyond federal requirements, standards that elevate our brand above others.

What sort of contribution are you hoping to make towards a more sustainable community?

We seek to highlight the advances in management that are already fostering the rebuilding and maintenance of healthy fish populations, and we commit to provide “above and beyond” leadership on stewardship issues in the Gulf. Our Conservation Covenants reflect the additional, voluntary steps that the fishermen and vessel owners participating in the Gulf Wild campaign are willing to take in pursuit of that accountability and sustainable harvest.

How often do you work with chefs/restaurants?

Advising the Gulf Wild™ program is a seven-member national Advisory Board. This Board includes leaders from the culinary, conservation, and retail environments that serve seafood consumers at large, including Chef Rick Moonen, Executive Chef of RM Seafood in Las Vegas Nevada and sustainable seafood advocate, Geoff Luebkemann, Vice President for Education & Training for Florida Restaurant & Lodging Association, Tallahassee, FL and Karl D. Turner President/Founder A La Carte Specialty Foods, New Orleans, LA.

We are tapping into this expertise to help guide our chef and restaurant partners who are eager to promote the Gulf Wild™ brand.  We work with restaurants from Florida to Texas, high end to high volume, and provide the marketing solutions required to bring industry success.  We bring you the fish, you make it fabulous!

Do you have plans to expand the types of fish being tracked by MyGulfWild?

We plan to bring all the Gulf reef fish into this management practice. It is essential to integrate all reef fisheries into better fishery management plans, to make new conservation-based management complementary with the established commercial fishery management, and to develop some concepts that can serve as models for improved management not only in the Gulf but in other public consumption fisheries worldwide.  These remaining reef fish will then be wrapped into the Gulf Wild™ program.

Do you have plans to expand to a greater community of fishermen?

We want to tailor and expand our concept to include conservation-minded fishermen across the Gulf of Mexico, helping to differentiate their product, stabilize the wild-caught seafood market in the region, and preserve coastal jobs related to the fishing industry region-wide, and potentially worldwide.

Why did the organization become a member of Chefs Collaborative?

Part of the Alliance initiative and the Gulf Wild™ program is to partner with like-minded conservation advocates. We want to build a network of strong partners who are educating chefs, retailers, restaurants and consumers to the benefits of sustainably harvested catches to ensure the health of our fisheries.  Education and partnership are keys to the successes of both Chefs Collaborative and Gulf Wild™.

Is there anything you want our members and friends to know about the organization?

Gulf Wild™ fishermen are visionary members of the Gulf of Mexico Reef Fish Shareholders’ Alliance, one of the most advanced and conservation-minded groups of fishermen in the world. They sought a unique manner of business that would sustain a healthy fishery, and provide year-round consumer access to authentic and safety-inspected seafood. The members have agreed to wholly support this program across the entire Gulf of Mexico, from the western tip of Florida to the southernmost port in Texas.  After the Deepwater Horizon oil disaster in the Gulf, our fishermen felt compelled to ensure consumer confidence in Gulf of Mexico seafood.  With no financial assistance from BP, we have produced the only trackable, safety inspected, conservation based and identifiable brand of seafood from the Gulf of Mexico.

Please support our efforts, become a member at www.shareholdersalliance.org, friend us on Facebook, follow us on Twitter, and tell people about Gulf Wild, mygulfwild.com. Best yet, ask your seafood retailer or dealer to place an order for Gulf Wild™ brand seafood.

When I was a kid my grandfather saw it fitting to give my little brother and me a subscription to National Geographic as a Christmas present every year. The anticipation of pulling off the plastic sheathing to get at the contents hidden beneath the iconic yellow cover was a once a month event that became as ritualistic as anything can be in a child’s life, especially after my grandfather’s death.

These days my magazine subscriptions run less in the vein of science and exploration and more in-line with my profession; Gastronomica, the Art of Eating, Edible Boston, Saveur; but National Geographic still finds its way into the mix. This month a funny thing happened. Nestled between an article on the Middle East and one on Portugal’s only National Park was an article titled “Food Ark: Preserving heirloom seeds and breeds is crucial if we are to feed our hungry world.” National Geographic, my only non-profession-related reading suddenly became immensely relevant.

The article opens:

A crisis is looming: to feed our growing population, we’ll need to double food production. Yet crop yields aren’t increasing fast enough, and climate change and new diseases threaten the limited varieties we’ve come to depend on for food. Luckily we still have the seeds and breeds to ensure our future food supply –but we must take steps to save them.

After giving a  nod to the Seed Savers Exchange, author Charles Siebert shrewdly notes, “Most of us in the well-fed world give little thought to where our food comes from or how it’s grown.” The fact is, as the article points out, that “in the United States an estimated 90 percent of our historic fruit and vegetables varieties have vanished.” And in the world at large, we’ve lost more than 50 percent of food varieties in the last century alone.

Siebert quotes Rick Ward of Cornell as saying “a significant humanitarian crisis is inevitable.” He’s talking about wheat production, more specifically the strain of stem rust known as Ug99 “a virulent and fast mutating strain” that at least 90 percent of the world’s wheat is defenseless against. But the fact of the matter is that “the world has become increasingly dependent upon technology-driven, one-size-fits-all solutions to its problems.” Ug99 is certainly becoming more the rule than the exception, points out Seibert.  “The best hope for securing food’s future may depend on our ability to preserve the locally cultivated foods of the past,” he writes.

And herein lies the real heart of the issue. While the article goes on to point out the benefits of heritage breeds and heirlooms seeds, touches on the green revolution, on seed banks, and on the success of local varieties of seeds in Ethiopia, the most important point is that food security depends on biodiversity and localized solutions. Too often advocates for local sourcing and local knowledge are dismissed as luddites or elitist “foodies.”

But unlike my nostalgia  for National Geographic because of its ties to my grandfather, embracing heirloom vegetables and heritage breeds isn’t a way to look back. It’s a way to look forward. A way to recognize the inherent knowledge of agriculture and taste cultivated by years of technical sharing and know how among communities is a way to strengthen our food systems and our world.

—Rob Booz, network coordinator

I’ve never been much of a fast food eater (although I will guiltily admit to indulging on road trips) however I was intrigued when I began seeing articles about big name chains such as McDonald’s and Chipotle using sustainable and local products. Are these companies using the term “sustainable” and “local” as a marketing tool? Are they hoping to reach a broader market by introducing these changes? Or are they genuinely concerned with local businesses and preserving our natural resources? So many questions.

While Chipotle offers “fresher” ingredients and “healthier” options than most fast food joints, it is still considered a fast food restaurant. Chipotle was ahead of the crowd and began using locally sourced, organically grown produce in 2008 and vowed to increase their usage every year. Recently, the company announced that it plans to more than double that usage this year, increasing its national supply by at least ten million pounds. In many of its California locations where the growing season is almost year round, Chipotle uses local produce including avocados, peppers, cilantro and lemons and limes, as often as they can. With 1, 100 locations (albeit a laughable number compared to most chains), Chipotle should be able to source locally (defined by less than 350 miles from a restaurant location) a fair amount if they keep their “vow;” this is great news for Chipotle fans and fast food loving, health minded locavores alike. While a visit to Chipotle isn’t quite a home cooked meal with your CSA delivery, it appears that this is in fact, a step towards a more sustainable chain restaurant.

As Marion Nestle said, “a better-for-you processed food is not necessarily a good choice,” but it is a better choice, and not just for those consuming the product. Do you think these changes will have an impact on these chain’s local environment or our environment as a whole? Do you think this will change the way you look at fast food? Whether these changes are a marketing ploy or a genuine effort to convert to a more sustainable business model, it encourages a more sustainable way of thinking in a widespread population and will hopefully encourage other chains to follow suit.

Mallory Cushman is the Development and Communications Intern at Chefs Collaborative.

We’ve talked a lot about sustainable meat, fish, and veggies.  We’ve talked about sourcing and distribution issues, as well as cost, nutrition and (of course) taste.  But there’s something on the dining room table that we haven’t talked much about: DRINKS!  Who doesn’t enjoy a good glass of Pinot Noir with their salmon, a spicy Syrah with their roasted lamb, a juicy Zin with their Barbecque or even a beer with some mussels? A little after dinner drink? How about a good Bourbon?

One little detail that seems to go under the radar: all those grapes, grains, hops, and corn are grown somewhere… on a farm or in a vineyard.  Then they have to be processed in some way shape or form before can become the beautiful beverages we love so well.  So shouldn’t those growing practices matter, too?  Shouldn’t we be talking about pesticides, and herbicides and runoff water for the other part of the meal, the beverage?

I know that some of you have focused on sustainable wine lists and probably carry some organic beers or spirits.  And I know that there are some common misconceptions out there: organic wines taste bad, the good ones are expensive, my customers don’t care, where can I get a hold of them anyway….  But we’ve heard all of this with food.  And we know that where there’s a will there’s a way.

I’d like to start this conversation about sustainable beverages with a call for input.  What are you doing in your restaurants to promote sustainable beverages?  Any best practices you look for?  Let me know at katied@chefscollaborative.org.

Katie is the National Summit intern for the Chefs Collaborative.

It’s a good thing New Englanders have an innate tolerance for gloomy weather, or else the Let’s Talk About Food Festival might have been a wash out. Sure, the morning rains made some folks think twice about a stroll down Cambridge Parkway; but it would’ve taken a Nor’easter to dampen a conversation like this.

At 8:30 a.m., more than 50 exhibitor booths were lined up along the Charles River in Boston, waiting to be adorned by “foodies, experts, and others” with information on everything from gardening to nutrition. I was pleasantly surprised to find the Chefs Collaborative table face-to-face with the event’s food trucks—talk about convenient. Resisting all urges to make a few pit stops, I passed by Go Fish and The Froyo Truck with newfound self-control.

Joining us on the roster of exhibitors (to name a few) were Robin Cohen of Doves and Figs, who spoke about food preservation tips and techniques, Community Servings, a non-profit food and nutrition program serving individuals and families living with critical and chronic illnesses, and locally-based sustainable chocolate producer Taza Chocolate. Hey, if that isn’t feel-good eats, I’m just not sure what is.

Executive Director Melissa Kogut with Chefs Jodi Adams and Todd Haberlein

With our booth creatively weather-proofed using plenty of tape and a couple DIY pebble paperweights, our Chefs Collaborative team opened up the Ask a Chef table for business—err, asking!

We started with Carla and Christine Pallotta, the chef-owners of Nebo in Boston’s North End. Though the morning traffic had yet to materialize, the Pallotta duo came ready to talk—and talk we did! Luckily for us, a slow start meant that they didn’t mind answering a few dozen questions from an overly caffeinated intern.

Chefs Charles Draghi, German Lam and Brad Stevens

Next up were Chefs German Lam of Glam Foods and Chef Brad Stevens of Community Servings. Chef Lam’s enthusiasm for “free style” cooking was infectious, and his metaphor of cooking to sports was well received by the local crowd. Chef Stevens, who was just as eager to engage in the public dialogue, answered a range of questions from “What are essential spices to stock in a tiny kitchen?” to “How do I make chickpea flour a success?” Not to be missed were Chefs JJ Gonson, Michael Leviton, Dante DiGamistris, Todd Haberlein, Tony Bennencourt, Ranveer Dar, David Stein and Jodi Adams, who popped by our table to join in on the discussion.

If one thing is certain, it’s that there was no shortage of information. Attendees could hop from Ask a Chef to Ask an Author, listen in on a discussion at the Endless Tables, and finish their day with a visit to the Edible Garden. Simply put, an event like Let’s Talk About Food is exactly what we need in today’s food landscape. We were thrilled to meet so many people who are exploring their interest in food and sustainability and are continuously encouraged by your curiosity to learn about our mission.

So, let’s continue the conversation! I’ll ask the first question: What inspires you to start talking?

I tried my first lobster at the tender age of four. To my parents’ chagrin, it was love at first chewy, buttery bite. From then on, lobster became a tradition at every birthday, and was often more important than the cake.

What does that say about me? Well for one, that I’ve been hooked on lobster for about 17 years. You might also guess that I grew up around here, on Boston’s North Shore. My family and I have been lucky enough to live just steps away from the ocean, which means that fresh seafood is as standard as our toasted buns (with our lobster rolls, that is). It’s probably best to note that despite temptation, I still don’t call it “lobstah.”

That childhood experience should also tell you that I’ve been a life-long fan of food. And while I realize that most people would fall under the “fan of food” category, I simply can’t remember a time when it didn’t play a significant role in my life.

My interest kicked off after I discovered the Food Network (boy, do I wish it was the other way around!) and before I knew it, I was hooked. After spending a semester in Paris this past year, it was obvious that food was my calling. I was amazed at the crates of fresh produce that my skinny host mom lugged back from French markets for her family of nine, plus two foreign adoptees. She’d press fresh grape juice that was naturally sweeter than any juice you’ll find in a bottle, and the smell of her homemade bread would wake me from the deepest slumber. One of the best memories of my stay in Europe was on a visit to a Tuscan villa, where I had pesto that was SO unbelievably good, I naively asked if they sold it by the jar… how American.

When I returned home, the enormity of our supermarkets and vacuum-sealed orange cheeses felt so disconnected to me. Needless to say, I missed the friendly faces at my “fromagerie.”

Now a senior in college (yikes, already!?), I’m studying French and Broadcast Media Arts at Elon University in North Carolina. I strive to make informed choices when buying food and enjoy making frequent trips to local markets and co-ops. Those efforts to continue my appreciation for foods’ origins have taken me on a crazy culinary adventure: veganism. And although that meant passing on the lobster tradition this year, I’ve learned so much about respecting our food and our community. Rather than seeing what I “can’t” eat, I’m paying attention to the quality of what I do eat. I’m passionate about understanding where my food comes from, and hope to inspire that curiosity in others.

That’s why I couldn’t be more thrilled to share that passion with Chefs Collaborative. As their new Digital Media Intern, I expect that my hunger to explore (and downright hunger to eat) will lead me to new adventures in sustainability and a greater gastronomic understanding. With a video camera in hand, I hope to bring you along with me!

From Executive Director, Melissa Kogut:

Is our vision of the family farm as the answer to a sustainable food system (over industrial farming and globalization) just farm nostalgia? I was struck by a thoughtful recent article by Brent Cunningham, making the point that it may not be all that helpful to us to hold the family farm out as the blueprint for solving our food production woes.

I referenced this article in a recent FreshNet (our e-newsletter) and got a lot of thoughtful feedback in my inbox from members who have been thinking about this topic.  We’re posting some of the feedback here and want to keep the conversation going.

I once heard Fred Kirschenmann, longtime national and international leader in sustainable agriculture, say something that resonated for me.  Citing the crisis we’re in and the importance of a food system that encourages independent entrepreneurship, regional food sufficiency and food sovereignty, he referenced the book Guns, Germs and Steel: “Those civilizations that have correctly assessed their current situations, anticipated the coming challenges, and gotten a head start in preparing for them, were the ones that survived.  Those that failed in that exercise collapsed.

Even though we may not have all the answers for how to fix the crisis in the global food system, it’s vitally important that people are working now on many fronts to grapple with these issues because when the solution becomes clear, the people will be educated and ready.

I’m proud of the work that chefs are doing around the country to make responsible purchasing decisions, support local farmers and producers, and educate their customers with their menus — even as we struggle with the big questions, like, “can we feed the world this way?”

Scroll down for some feedback from our friends and members.

Jenny Huston, of Oakland, CA says:

Where to start… I am the first person born off the family farm since 1640 (Long Island, North Fork), my mother was the first member of her family to move out of the down state area, then leave NY in 1957. That said, I don’t agree with the premise of the article. At the present time we are using 10 calories of energy to produce 1 calorie of food, this is unsustainable and we need to change the system for the sake of humanity and every living thing on this planet. I don’t believe we will go back to the farm of West Virginia in the 1930′s, this is a very different creature than what a farm is today, and I am not talking about industrial Ag farm, but family farms. Additionally, I don’t think all modern farming practices should be thrown out, but we do need to utilize traditional farming techniques, along with appropriate modern farming techniques, to create sustainable agriculture system for the future.

Being a chef, and a female chef at that, is not easy if you are not using processed foods, which is my background, (having worked with Patrice Bouley, Alice Waters, Thomas Keller etc.) it is a lot of long hard days and nights. Do we expect the all jobs should be ‘easy’? It takes hard work to do it right, even if it is cooking real hamburgers, or raising chickens. One other issue is that monoculture is not often discussed, our family farm was a ‘truck farm,’ meaning that they raised their own fruits and vegetables, chickens, pigs, cattle and horses, in addition to their market produce (potatoes, head lettuce, tomatoes etc.) With a mix of products there was a spread of income through the year, and the production of fertilizer from the animals and composting. For example, traditionally, cattle and pigs are slaughtered in the fall, sold and/or preserved for the winter, this practice also mitigates the cost of feed through the winter… there are many more examples of traditional practices that are applicable today.

This is just my take on the issue.

Be well,

Jenny Huston

Kevin Brungraber, of LaCrosse, WI says:

As a youth I saw the decimation of the family farm growing up in Wisconsin. Corporate expansion into agribusiness and the inequality of the milk pricing board is mostly to blame. However, it was the business model of the Restaurant Franchise  and the growth of the grocery store that has ultimately caused the demise of small operation farming and the growth of corporate transnational distribution systems of mass produced food product. I’m sure you already know this, but this transition is not one that will be readily remedied by switching over to small farming systems. Indeed, they are an important part to the reversion to a more sustainable system for the long haul. On the whole, most Americans have become fond of their grocery store products, because of the constant promotion and marketing of said products.

I currently view the “organic” food movement as one embraced almost solely by liberals and affluents. If such a system is to be remedied it must be adopted by the whole of the U.S. population. The average American is currently tight on cash, and will cut corners with spending as long as the distribution system can afford to move food cheaply to market. (Eg. I live in La Crosse, WI, about a half an hour from Organic Valley. However, their butter is a minimum of two dollars more a pound than the competition. I will probably buy the competition’s simply because it is cheaper.)  Yet, I am confident the system can change, and will change. But, the small farms are only part of the answer.

Therefore, I suggest regional farming systems with large indoor growing facilities for year-round production. In the Midwest, with no access to the coasts, our main problem is getting quality local fish for a fair price. We need to build closed aquatic systems for fish and shellfish farming regionally as well, to support restaurants’ daily need for consistent quality product.  Because of mercury pollution in Wisconsin’s northern lakes, farm runoff in the Mississippi, and sportfishing, I have no access to even native fish of Wisconsin in grocery stores or the restaurants I’ve worked in. With the exception of trout from Palmyra and Sweetwater Organics in Milwaukee for perch, I’ve got nothing. I have to get my walleye frozen from Canada, because the fresh stuff is regularly $15 per pound!

These regional growing facilities should be owned as cooperatives by small farmers to prevent corporate monopoly on the system.  In other words, farm fresh is always the best, but larger scale operations bring the price down for the consumer. We need the small farmer to grow up in a responsible way. Much like how national food distribution companies lay out their distribution plants, we should try to configure planning regional indoor farms’ placement in a similar fashion. The grocery store is here to stay, but we need to come up with concepts to infiltrate them. I see Rick B.’s Frontera line, and that is one good step.

On a side note, these facilities would create more jobs locally. They would allow for more land to go back to their natural state. And fish farms would allow natural fish populations to recover, and give our oceans a much needed break.

Addressing the chain restaurant, we need someone with the celebrity of Rick to promote a new national chain restaurant that supports local farmers/products. This would be a great step in forging the “go local/organic” movement from a restaurant perspective nationally to brand the movement and give it a face and name. Not to mention that it would undercut other chain restaurants in quality of product.

I would like to see Chefs Collaborative take a lead on these concepts, because they are necessary steps in removing negative influences on the food industry by corporate entities. ”Organic”, “sustainable”, “heirloom”, and “heritage,” need to be affordable to all Americans/people from a business perspective to see universal change in our system. These concepts need to address pricing for the consumer to maintain growth for the long run, and to prevent loss of interest in the movement that will occur over time if it is not practical from a consumer financial perspective.

Thank you for reading this somewhat solicited rant, and I hope it makes sense.

Kevin Brungraber

Member of Chefs Collaborative since 2009

Want to weigh in? Please post your thoughts and comments on Brent Cunningham’s article and let’s keep the conversation going!

This post comes to us courtesy of James E. Miller, the President of Carp Catchers Cooperative.

Asian carp, an invasive species threatening the ecosystems and native species of our lakes and rivers, is a serious concern to those of us who care about the likely extinction of some of the native fish species in our mid-American River system and the invasion by the Asian carp into the Great Lakes.

Carp Catchers Cooperatives (CCC) is a low profit, limited liability company with four bottom lines: people, planet, profit and principles.  We’re focused on creative solutions to the Asian carp invasion of the Mississippi River Basin and of National Waters, where in some reaches, Asian carp constitute 95% of the fish biomass.

CCC is also an outreach fishery to improve the catch of Asian carp, while sorting and returning to the river the native fish, alive and unharmed. We are interested in letting folks know that the Asian carp, unlike the bottom feeding common carp, produces fillets and steaks which are of premium quality and tastes delicious.  We’d love to know if you’ve tried it and what you think.  Just respond to this blog post.

I invite you to learn more by going to Carp Catchers Cooperative, http://carpcatchersco-op.wetpaint.com. And if you are a chef interested in making good use of an invasive species, please feel free to contact us directly at: jimmiller5417@gmail.com.

James E. Miller

President, Carp Catchers Cooperative

When/how did you know you wanted to be a chef?

There were 3 moments actually.

The first was in 8^th grade… seriously.  My interest was piqued. At that age, I did not fully comprehend what being a professional chef entailed but I was quite intrigued by food, the people who prepared it and all the roadside farm stands around our home in Pennsylvania.  As a teenager, I would make the entire Thanksgiving dinner for our family and grandparents (I hope they were telling a young teen the truth when they said the turkey was not dry and that they enjoyed everything) and experiment making various soups for the family during the regular weeks.  I was also fortunate to have a wonderful teacher in high school, Alice Gates, who directed me towards the world of the culinary arts.

The second was at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI (1986-88).  This is where it clicked and I was hooked.  What an eye opener chef school was!  The discipline and confidence instilled in me was just what was needed to further shape my fascination of the culinary arts.

The third was at the Williamsburg Inn in Williamsburg Virginia (1988).  This is where I started my career and had the distinct privilege of working under someone whom I will always call Chef, best friend and mentor – Chef Hans Schadler.  Chef instilled professionalism, pride in the arts, attention to the details and a sense of focused creativity.  I credit him with shaping my career and providing a solid base to grow from.  He is a truly amazing person.

Your favorite childhood memory of food. How about earliest?

Something that you will learn about me is that I can never pick just one favorite, as my wife will attest to. We play the game “what was your highlight” at the family dinner table where my wife, daughter and I go around the table and share our daily highlight (singular is the key word there)… I always have two highlights, which drives them nuts.

• Sipping real birch beer tapped from pony kegs at golf tournaments with my dad in Lancaster, PA.
• Dutch oven cooking – fruit cobblers made over the campfire, during scouting camp outs.
• Fresh sweet corn from the fields down the road from my parents home paulus stand (love corn on the cob and now love to soak, season and grill it)
• Salt water taffy at the Jersey shore, on family vacations… what kid doesn’t get hooked on that?
• Boysenberry chewing gum I would get at the 5 and dime up the road from my grandparents home in Jersey.
• Catching trout with my granddad on family vacations in Vermont.  We would gather earth worms the night before, then he would wake us at 4:00 am to start the hike to key fishing holes (he had 100 acres on top of the mountain).  We would try to hook the “elders” as we called the older, wiser, bigger trout.  We would bring home our bounty and nanny (my grandma) would show us how to filet them, then we would griddle them in a cast iron pan along with sliced potatoes and scrambled eggs.  It was fun, it was educational, it was primal, it was delicious and it bonded us.
• My grandmother’s New England style bread pudding with custard baked into it.  It was delish.
• Seeing the 100’s of jars of canned food (all types of veggies, soup, sauces, etc.) in the cold cellar of my grandparent’s basement…my granddad kept a detailed list of the inventory, dates, usage, etc.  Very impressive and tasty.
• Making old fashioned ice cream with my dad with our hand crank machine and rock salt.
• Climbing the neighborhood black mulberry  tree and sucking down endless pints of berries until our stomachs burst and we were covered head to toe in purple stains.  My mom did not like trying to wash out the stains… which I finally now understand having a 5 year old daughter.

What’s your favorite food to work with?

The fresh food the kids at Pleasant View Elementary in Springfield Missouri grow at the school greenhouse/culinary program (we will be in year 3 of the program).  These kids and teachers truly ROCK!!!  Somehow, the food coming out of those gardens just tastes better than anything else.  Maybe it’s because you can see the sheer delight beaming from the kids faces as they are eating a family meal together – from food that they planted, nurtured, harvested and then prepared.  Every Thursday, during the school year, Curtis (the program founder) and I teach 120 kids (K-5) to cultivate their imagination in the garden and kitchen.  It is great fun to see 5^th graders cook for 1^st graders and kindergartners.

What was your inspiration for the Latin flair the Unforked menu has?

I actually see the menu as more of a FLAVOR flair.  The goal was to engage consumers with craveable flavors, which would connect with them and create indelible food experience. The culinary strategy was to have something that was familiar and comforting and then give it a hip innovative twist; nothing too outrageous but definitely something that had a unique hook.  There are sooooo many amazing flavors, cultures, cuisines and techniques to explore (Latin being a very tasty one of those).  The menu is geared to showcase a range and evolve as we track emerging trends.  It will be fun to look at Korean BBQ, Indian, North Africa, Mediterranean, ethnic fusion and other options which will fit our culinary strategy.

Some current menu examples are:

Kansas City homage

• KC Q taco
• KC torta

Cali/West Coast

• Cali taco
• Crispy Avocado taco
• Pink Lady taco

Latin/Hispanic

• Conquistador taco
• Traffic Jam taco
• Chipz

Mexican

• BFF taco
• Fundido Sirloin taco
• Migas taco
• Agua Frescas

Southeast Asia

• Thai Me Up salad
• Citrus Crunch Chicken (was actually like a PF Chang’s crispy, sweet/spicy tossed chicken)

Artisan

• Barking Pig taco (which has become a fan fav and seems like our signature taco)

What made you decide to work with local vendors?

There is a wise saying: “a chef is only as good as the ingredients they use.”  Point blank, it is what we all should be doing as chefs, forming partnerships within our region and wrapping our arms around quality…. right?  Kinda goes at the core of our DNA as a chef.  With that said though, local has no impact if you don’t back that up with consistent great tasting food (the food has got to taste good or guests won’t come back)!  It goes beyond supporting local, or local economics or for those getting on board due to consumer demand or pressure.  It is the story behind the source which captivates me and will captivate our Unforked guests.

Working with local vendors is about a personal philosophy and way of life.  It starts with exploring what artisan craftsmanship exists in the surrounding area.  I start with the goal of ascertaining the highest quality offerings, exploring the sourcing options and then I figure out the pricing & how it works on the menu.  It is important to craft a relationship with the people growing/producing your food.  One needs to be diligent, figure out the distribution and carve out the time to let these relationships develop naturally.

First – I guess one must define local or what it means for their business.  Seems placing miles is a bit constrictive.  Some look at miles such as a 150 mile radius, some look statewide & into surrounding states and some look at regions.  Go with what feels right to your operation.

Second – I see local (those things closer to home) applying more so to produce, fruit, honey, cheese, eggs and products of that nature.  This typically encapsulates smaller scale family farms.

Meat and poultry seems more appropriate to look at through a “sustainable lens” vs. a local definition.  We want our animals to be raised where it makes most sense, whether that is 10 or 1,000 miles away.  Look at the optimum growing areas around the country, where the animals are raised with the harmony of the land.

Third – Transparency is key for an operation like ours and for those truly crafting “local and fresh.”  Sharing with your guests where the food comes from and why you purchase what you do is crucial.  Truthfully tout what you do and communicate that effectively in your messaging.  Big or small, let guests know the wonderful things you are doing and what is important to you.  Make this part of your culture and train your staff to share the passion.  Don’t get caught up on using empty sustainable buzz words… let your actions speak loudly, genuinely and clearly.

How would you describe Unforked? Innovative and healthy fast food? Faster slow food?

Definitely innovative!

We are building off the delicious success and mass appeal of Jim Sheridan’s Sheridan’s Custard units.  Jim has created a loyal following via his frozen custard (made fresh EVERY HOUR by the way and he has 21 custard stores in 8 states) and now his vision has merged with artisan tacos, tortas, salads, sides, beer/wine to create Unforked.  Jim took 5 months converting his Overland Park, Kansas Sheridan’s Custard into what is now Unforked.

FLAVOR first!!!!! We create indelible food experiences, for our guests – every day!

A “fast-fresh” concept: exceptional flavors at an exceptional value.  We hope to be 2-3 steps ahead of anything the industry has seen and provide a perpetual source of leadership in foodservice.

Your everyday place/joint: we want to drive velocity and have Unforked be an everyday experience for our guests, not a special occasion or every now and then occurrence.  It is definitely about the experience.

Food is more in the style of: Modern American, emphasizing high quality, seasonal, locally sourced (when possible) food.  The food is wholesome, high in flavor and nutrient dense; so you feel good about what you are eating.

Food takes cues from: regional and international street foods, your fav “joint,” your fav experience when you traveled, etc.

Our food is simplistic in its nature: Nothing frou frou here.   Solid execution of technique, flavors and the final build.  There is a comfort base to each offering (that a guest can connect to) with a subtle and unique twist that creates the “ah-ha” moment.

You’ve been in the business for a long time and you have a very impressive career. Do you still learn from your fellow chefs and epicureans?

Those are kind words for you to say – thank you.

The camaraderie within our profession is infectious.   The beauty is working with one’s peers, meeting new people and re-connecting with old friends.  With an open mind, learning comes at every turn:  from kids, students, chefs, foodies, farmers, operations, magazines, travels, etc.

My advice is to absorb as much as you can and engage all your senses in learning.  The key is to take in all the stimulus and information, filter that into relevant, actionable nuggets of strategic wisdom and then make it your own.  Put your personal style on all you do.

Every day is a day of learning and personal/professional development.  Life and work is supposed to be fun!  My inner chef voice always reminds me, I am only as good as my last meal.  Meaning, appreciate any accolades, but never rest on your laurels.

Treat each meal and moment like it is your very first impression to the world. Strive to exceed expectations.

I have been fortunate to work alongside amazingly talented and creative people throughout my career; all of whom have enriched each culinary program and made me better.  Hopefully, I will continue to garner respect in the industry and be able to make a positive impact on people.

What do you want your legacy to the culinary world to be?

Chef Rob Corliss inspired people (especially kids) to foster a deep connection with their food, environment and health/wellness.

Why did you become a member of Chefs Collaborative?

For:

• Inspiration
• Education on sustainability, culinary arts and all things epicurean
• Mutual sharing of passion and knowledge
• To develop new friendships
• To celebrate sustainability
• To become an active member and lead by example
• To make a difference and be a catalyst for positive change

Anything you want our members and friends to know about you?

My family is my light.  Am continually amazed by my glorious wife and daughter.  I’m a lucky man!

Gardening is my stress reliever and provides clarity & peace of mind.  Our home garden is our shangri-la.

I have a love for animals and nature.

I would love a personal teaching on whole hog butchering.

I’m a diehard Dallas Cowboys fan… a lifer (you’re gonna either love or hate that).

To learn more about Chef Rob Corliss and his epicurean endeavors, visit All Things Epicurean and Unforked.