Chefs Collaborative

Reflections by Melissa Kogut, executive director, Chefs Collaborative

NOAA Ship R/V Henry B. Bigelow

Who should we be paying attention to when it comes to getting definitive information about the health of our domestic fish stocks?  Government scientists, ocean conservation groups and NGO’s (non-governmental organizations), fishermen…?  All the parties play important roles in contributing data and analysis.  The fact is that it’s complicated!  And, it’s no wonder there is a lot of tension about the topic – the state of our seafood supply and livelihood of fishermen are at stake.

So when I received an invitation to participate in the Marine Resource Education Program, a two-day course in fish population science, I jumped at the chance.  The program was developed to bridge the gap of understanding between New England’s fishing industry leaders and the fishery science community.  I set out to better understand why there are discrepancies in fish stock assessments and differences of opinion among the stakeholders.   It was also an opportunity to better understand the perceptions of commercial fishermen.

For organizations like Chefs Collaborative, that educate chefs about cooking with sustainable seafood, I believe we have a responsibility to see the big picture in all its complexity.

The training program, sponsored by NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) and led by a team based at the Gulf of Maine Research Institute, seeks to empower fishermen with information so that they can effectively participate in the management process and to facilitate trust and relationships among the various stakeholders.

I had plenty of opportunity to talk with commercial fishermen and got an earful.  Fishermen, who have had to roll with new policies and catch limits, bear a huge burden when they must adapt to ever-changing rules.  (For example, with the new sector rules for groundfishing in the northeast, permits are issued to participating fishing vessels based on their fish landings-history over a 10-year period.  One fisherman told me that he was forced to sell one of his fishing vessels for well below what he still owed the bank because it hadn’t targeted groundfish heavily during those 10 years and therefore didn’t qualify for an adequate quota.)

There is an overall perception in the fishing community that their opinions do not matter and that when they go to meetings and express their opinions nothing happens.   It was clear to me in listening to their questions and comments that fishermen know a lot about the habits of fish, where they are, and how to catch them.  There is often frustration expressed that fish stocks are assessed from faulty data – that scientists look for fish in the wrong places or use the wrong gear – or that conclusions are drawn about overfishing when there may be other explanations for the absence of fish (such as the fact that fish move around).  Fishermen have useful information to contribute  and scientists encourage them  to be actively a part of the assessment process.

One of the big questions from fishermen was, “why does it take so damn long between when data is collected and when it’s used in management?”  They complain that catch limits are often set using dated information.  We saw first hand one of the reasons it takes so long – there is such a volume of data to be gathered and analyzed.  Quality control is essential for accuracy in assessments – it can’t be rushed!  (Of course, once the data is released, the policy-making  takes a long time too.)

Taking out the otolith at the Northeast Fisheries Science Center (NEFSC)

Just as an example, we witnessed one tool scientists use to determine the age of a fish – removing and examining the otolith, a small hard structure found in a fish’s head (we have them in our heads as well – it’s what gives us balance).  Once removed, the otoliths are sliced and mounted in plastic, labeled for each fish, and then  are viewed under a microscope to count the rings (just like counting tree rings).  This information is compared with other information about each fish to give a complete picture.  50,000 to 100,000 otoliths are aged each year for dozens of fish species just to understand the current population structure!

NOAA maintains a warehouse with millions of biological samples (ear bones, stomach contents, etc.) and reams of data on catch and distribution, collected over decades!

After two days of seeing scientists at work – at the Northeast Fisheries Science Center (NEFSC) in Woods Hole, MA, at the NOAA gear facility and Northeast Observer Program in Pocasset, MA, and on the R/V Henry B. Bigelow – NOAA’s research vessel – in Newport, RI, I was blown away by the commitment of the scientists to getting it right.  The fishermen in the program with me were as well.

What did I walk away with after seeing all this science and research in action and talking to fishermen?

• A renewed commitment to understanding the complexity of assessing our fish stocks and how to manage them.  It’s not as simple as looking at a red, green, yellow seafood watch list – though these lists provide some helpful basic information.
• Fishermen need to be actively part of the process when setting policy for managing our fish stocks.  At the end of the day, stewardship is about routine, daily decisions.
• NOAA needs adequate funding to do its important research.  The better and more thorough the data the more that policy will be set based on complete information.
• Chefs Collaborative does a pretty good job helping our member chefs understand that they have access to more information than the average consumer and what questions to ask.  A fisherman or trusted seafood purveyor can tell a chef about how and where the fish was caught and the state of the stock.
• Chefs can play an influential role in supporting fishing communities as well as in shaping policy.  Many of our members around the country can share stories about how they are doing that.

I returned home with feelings of respect for the fishermen and scientists who work hard and are good at what they do.  We need home-grown fishing businesses to thrive because these fishermen have great knowledge about sustainable fishing practices and if we lose them we lose that expertise and a way of life for good.  Quality research, participation of fishermen in accurate stock assessments and policy-making, and sound policy based on reliable data will go a long way in successful fish stock management.  But, overfishing is not the only consideration.  Addressing the causes of pollution and climate change are major factors as well.

Check out Green Chefs, Blue Ocean, the online sustainable seafood tutorial for chefs and culinary students developed by Chefs Collaborative and Blue Ocean Institute for more information.

Also, we welcome your thoughts about addressing issues around sustainable seafood.

New Orleans: Chefs Collaborative National Summit 2011

Something happened to me in New Orleans during the Chefs Collaborative National Summit. Problem is I don’t know what it is just yet. What I can tell you is that I fell in love with the city more than any other place I have ever been. Some might say that’s because of the “Bourbon Street Buzz” but although that was fun, its not the reason. The architecture and history remind me of walking through the streets of Logrono, Spain the capital city of Rioja. Every time the wind would change direction you would get a new aroma drifting by that you just want to follow as if you were in a cartoon looking for that apple pie in the window. I can close my eyes right now and smell the distinct aroma of the French Market, the coffee shops and even the smoke filled Jazz bars had a distinct aroma that fit the venue. The sounds of music, all types of music from every type of bar you can imagine filled the streets well into the nights.

The group of people from all over the country assembled for the 2011 Chefs Collaborative National Summit was amazing. Chefs, restaurateurs, farmers, ranchers, fisherman, conservation and sustainability experts all gathered to learn, share and have fun in a city with so much to offer the rest of the country. What was very humbling to me was the sense of pride that I sensed from every local chef that cooked for us during the 3 day non stop feast of some of the most unique and delicious food I have had in a long time. No foams, sous vide or multi-level presentations, just local chefs cooking the food they love to eat. It was if they each told a story about themselves with every bite of every meal. These chefs all want you to feel the pride they feel when they cook. When they speak they speak from the soul. They make you feel the passion they have for their culture, their food traditions and each other. It was such an emotional experience for me personally to hear every chef, and I mean every chef talk about the other chefs in the city and not themselves. No competition, no egos, just so real that I will forever strive to emulate these amazing people who cook because they just plain love to cook.

Another almost surreal experience was being able to walk up to some chefs that I have looked up to for years and just say thank you for their inspiration. Chefs like Michael Leviton and Sam Hayward, Susan Spicer and many more are so humble yet have a presence that will always inspire me when I put my chef jacket on.

The Chefs Collaborative team did such an amazing job putting this together, the discussions, demos and networking opportunities were all very informative and I feel much more prepared to work on some of the projects I have been wanting to start but haven’t had the proper knowledge to get the ball rolling.

The thing Ill remember most about this trip though…….the company I had with me. A small group of us that just thought alike to the point of being somewhat creepy. We had remarkable conversations about each others kitchens, projects and lives. The interest in every little conversation was too a little daunting but fascinating at the same time. A connection between people who understand each other’s labors in this profession and can work through solutions with each other all while having such a great experience.

When you first log onto the Chefs Collaborative web site the first thing you read is… Chefs Collaborative is a national chef network that’s changing the sustainable food landscape using the power of connections, education and responsible buying decisions. but in reality its so much more…By reading and thinking about each of the guiding principles (which you can read by clicking here) Chefs Collaborative is a way of life…a way of doing business…and most importantly its a family of people from around the country who are all working towards the same goals.

As I finish this up I guess I do know what happened to me in New Orleans, I became a better cook and a better chef and I hope that you will consider becoming a part of this great organization and share your experiences and best practices to achieve the vision.

Our vision: As a result of our work, sustainable practices will be second nature for every chef in the United States