Just Farm Nostalgia?

From Executive Director, Melissa Kogut:

Is our vision of the family farm as the answer to a sustainable food system (over industrial farming and globalization) just farm nostalgia? I was struck by a thoughtful recent article by Brent Cunningham, making the point that it may not be all that helpful to us to hold the family farm out as the blueprint for solving our food production woes.

I referenced this article in a recent FreshNet (our e-newsletter) and got a lot of thoughtful feedback in my inbox from members who have been thinking about this topic.  We’re posting some of the feedback here and want to keep the conversation going.

I once heard Fred Kirschenmann, longtime national and international leader in sustainable agriculture, say something that resonated for me.  Citing the crisis we’re in and the importance of a food system that encourages independent entrepreneurship, regional food sufficiency and food sovereignty, he referenced the book Guns, Germs and Steel: “Those civilizations that have correctly assessed their current situations, anticipated the coming challenges, and gotten a head start in preparing for them, were the ones that survived.  Those that failed in that exercise collapsed.

Even though we may not have all the answers for how to fix the crisis in the global food system, it’s vitally important that people are working now on many fronts to grapple with these issues because when the solution becomes clear, the people will be educated and ready.

I’m proud of the work that chefs are doing around the country to make responsible purchasing decisions, support local farmers and producers, and educate their customers with their menus — even as we struggle with the big questions, like, “can we feed the world this way?”

Scroll down for some feedback from our friends and members.

Jenny Huston, of Oakland, CA says:

Where to start… I am the first person born off the family farm since 1640 (Long Island, North Fork), my mother was the first member of her family to move out of the down state area, then leave NY in 1957. That said, I don’t agree with the premise of the article. At the present time we are using 10 calories of energy to produce 1 calorie of food, this is unsustainable and we need to change the system for the sake of humanity and every living thing on this planet. I don’t believe we will go back to the farm of West Virginia in the 1930′s, this is a very different creature than what a farm is today, and I am not talking about industrial Ag farm, but family farms. Additionally, I don’t think all modern farming practices should be thrown out, but we do need to utilize traditional farming techniques, along with appropriate modern farming techniques, to create sustainable agriculture system for the future.

Being a chef, and a female chef at that, is not easy if you are not using processed foods, which is my background, (having worked with Patrice Bouley, Alice Waters, Thomas Keller etc.) it is a lot of long hard days and nights. Do we expect the all jobs should be ‘easy’? It takes hard work to do it right, even if it is cooking real hamburgers, or raising chickens. One other issue is that monoculture is not often discussed, our family farm was a ‘truck farm,’ meaning that they raised their own fruits and vegetables, chickens, pigs, cattle and horses, in addition to their market produce (potatoes, head lettuce, tomatoes etc.) With a mix of products there was a spread of income through the year, and the production of fertilizer from the animals and composting. For example, traditionally, cattle and pigs are slaughtered in the fall, sold and/or preserved for the winter, this practice also mitigates the cost of feed through the winter… there are many more examples of traditional practices that are applicable today.

This is just my take on the issue.

Be well,

Jenny Huston

Kevin Brungraber, of LaCrosse, WI says:

As a youth I saw the decimation of the family farm growing up in Wisconsin. Corporate expansion into agribusiness and the inequality of the milk pricing board is mostly to blame. However, it was the business model of the Restaurant Franchise  and the growth of the grocery store that has ultimately caused the demise of small operation farming and the growth of corporate transnational distribution systems of mass produced food product. I’m sure you already know this, but this transition is not one that will be readily remedied by switching over to small farming systems. Indeed, they are an important part to the reversion to a more sustainable system for the long haul. On the whole, most Americans have become fond of their grocery store products, because of the constant promotion and marketing of said products.

I currently view the “organic” food movement as one embraced almost solely by liberals and affluents. If such a system is to be remedied it must be adopted by the whole of the U.S. population. The average American is currently tight on cash, and will cut corners with spending as long as the distribution system can afford to move food cheaply to market. (Eg. I live in La Crosse, WI, about a half an hour from Organic Valley. However, their butter is a minimum of two dollars more a pound than the competition. I will probably buy the competition’s simply because it is cheaper.)  Yet, I am confident the system can change, and will change. But, the small farms are only part of the answer.

Therefore, I suggest regional farming systems with large indoor growing facilities for year-round production. In the Midwest, with no access to the coasts, our main problem is getting quality local fish for a fair price. We need to build closed aquatic systems for fish and shellfish farming regionally as well, to support restaurants’ daily need for consistent quality product.  Because of mercury pollution in Wisconsin’s northern lakes, farm runoff in the Mississippi, and sportfishing, I have no access to even native fish of Wisconsin in grocery stores or the restaurants I’ve worked in. With the exception of trout from Palmyra and Sweetwater Organics in Milwaukee for perch, I’ve got nothing. I have to get my walleye frozen from Canada, because the fresh stuff is regularly $15 per pound!

These regional growing facilities should be owned as cooperatives by small farmers to prevent corporate monopoly on the system.  In other words, farm fresh is always the best, but larger scale operations bring the price down for the consumer. We need the small farmer to grow up in a responsible way. Much like how national food distribution companies lay out their distribution plants, we should try to configure planning regional indoor farms’ placement in a similar fashion. The grocery store is here to stay, but we need to come up with concepts to infiltrate them. I see Rick B.’s Frontera line, and that is one good step.

On a side note, these facilities would create more jobs locally. They would allow for more land to go back to their natural state. And fish farms would allow natural fish populations to recover, and give our oceans a much needed break.

Addressing the chain restaurant, we need someone with the celebrity of Rick to promote a new national chain restaurant that supports local farmers/products. This would be a great step in forging the “go local/organic” movement from a restaurant perspective nationally to brand the movement and give it a face and name. Not to mention that it would undercut other chain restaurants in quality of product.

I would like to see Chefs Collaborative take a lead on these concepts, because they are necessary steps in removing negative influences on the food industry by corporate entities. ”Organic”, “sustainable”, “heirloom”, and “heritage,” need to be affordable to all Americans/people from a business perspective to see universal change in our system. These concepts need to address pricing for the consumer to maintain growth for the long run, and to prevent loss of interest in the movement that will occur over time if it is not practical from a consumer financial perspective.

Thank you for reading this somewhat solicited rant, and I hope it makes sense.

Kevin Brungraber

Member of Chefs Collaborative since 2009

Want to weigh in? Please post your thoughts and comments on Brent Cunningham’s article and let’s keep the conversation going!

Posted by: Jen

Asian Carp – Destructive and.. Delicious?

This post comes to us courtesy of James E. Miller, the President of Carp Catchers Cooperative.

Asian carp, an invasive species threatening the ecosystems and native species of our lakes and rivers, is a serious concern to those of us who care about the likely extinction of some of the native fish species in our mid-American River system and the invasion by the Asian carp into the Great Lakes.

Carp Catchers Cooperatives (CCC) is a low profit, limited liability company with four bottom lines: people, planet, profit and principles.  We’re focused on creative solutions to the Asian carp invasion of the Mississippi River Basin and of National Waters, where in some reaches, Asian carp constitute 95% of the fish biomass.

CCC is also an outreach fishery to improve the catch of Asian carp, while sorting and returning to the river the native fish, alive and unharmed. We are interested in letting folks know that the Asian carp, unlike the bottom feeding common carp, produces fillets and steaks which are of premium quality and tastes delicious.  We’d love to know if you’ve tried it and what you think.  Just respond to this blog post.

I invite you to learn more by going to Carp Catchers Cooperative, http://carpcatchersco-op.wetpaint.com. And if you are a chef interested in making good use of an invasive species, please feel free to contact us directly at: jimmiller5417@gmail.com.

James E. Miller

President, Carp Catchers Cooperative

Posted by: Jen

June Member Spotlight: Chef Rob Corliss

When/how did you know you wanted to be a chef?

There were 3 moments actually.

The first was in 8th grade… seriously.  My interest was piqued. At that age, I did not fully comprehend what being a professional chef entailed but I was quite intrigued by food, the people who prepared it and all the roadside farm stands around our home in Pennsylvania.  As a teenager, I would make the entire Thanksgiving dinner for our family and grandparents (I hope they were telling a young teen the truth when they said the turkey was not dry and that they enjoyed everything) and experiment making various soups for the family during the regular weeks.  I was also fortunate to have a wonderful teacher in high school, Alice Gates, who directed me towards the world of the culinary arts.

The second was at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI (1986-88).  This is where it clicked and I was hooked.  What an eye opener chef school was!  The discipline and confidence instilled in me was just what was needed to further shape my fascination of the culinary arts.

The third was at the Williamsburg Inn in Williamsburg Virginia (1988).  This is where I started my career and had the distinct privilege of working under someone whom I will always call Chef, best friend and mentor – Chef Hans Schadler.  Chef instilled professionalism, pride in the arts, attention to the details and a sense of focused creativity.  I credit him with shaping my career and providing a solid base to grow from.  He is a truly amazing person.

Your favorite childhood memory of food. How about earliest?

Something that you will learn about me is that I can never pick just one favorite, as my wife will attest to. We play the game “what was your highlight” at the family dinner table where my wife, daughter and I go around the table and share our daily highlight (singular is the key word there)… I always have two highlights, which drives them nuts.

  • Sipping real birch beer tapped from pony kegs at golf tournaments with my dad in Lancaster, PA.
  • Dutch oven cooking – fruit cobblers made over the campfire, during scouting camp outs.
  • Fresh sweet corn from the fields down the road from my parents home paulus stand (love corn on the cob and now love to soak, season and grill it)
  • Salt water taffy at the Jersey shore, on family vacations… what kid doesn’t get hooked on that?
  • Boysenberry chewing gum I would get at the 5 and dime up the road from my grandparents home in Jersey.
  • Catching trout with my granddad on family vacations in Vermont.  We would gather earth worms the night before, then he would wake us at 4:00 am to start the hike to key fishing holes (he had 100 acres on top of the mountain).  We would try to hook the “elders” as we called the older, wiser, bigger trout.  We would bring home our bounty and nanny (my grandma) would show us how to filet them, then we would griddle them in a cast iron pan along with sliced potatoes and scrambled eggs.  It was fun, it was educational, it was primal, it was delicious and it bonded us.
  • My grandmother’s New England style bread pudding with custard baked into it.  It was delish.
  • Seeing the 100’s of jars of canned food (all types of veggies, soup, sauces, etc.) in the cold cellar of my grandparent’s basement…my granddad kept a detailed list of the inventory, dates, usage, etc.  Very impressive and tasty.
  • Making old fashioned ice cream with my dad with our hand crank machine and rock salt.
  • Climbing the neighborhood black mulberry  tree and sucking down endless pints of berries until our stomachs burst and we were covered head to toe in purple stains.  My mom did not like trying to wash out the stains… which I finally now understand having a 5 year old daughter.

What’s your favorite food to work with?

The fresh food the kids at Pleasant View Elementary in Springfield Missouri grow at the school greenhouse/culinary program (we will be in year 3 of the program).  These kids and teachers truly ROCK!!!  Somehow, the food coming out of those gardens just tastes better than anything else.  Maybe it’s because you can see the sheer delight beaming from the kids faces as they are eating a family meal together – from food that they planted, nurtured, harvested and then prepared.  Every Thursday, during the school year, Curtis (the program founder) and I teach 120 kids (K-5) to cultivate their imagination in the garden and kitchen.  It is great fun to see 5th graders cook for 1st graders and kindergartners.

What was your inspiration for the Latin flair the Unforked menu has?

I actually see the menu as more of a FLAVOR flair.  The goal was to engage consumers with craveable flavors, which would connect with them and create indelible food experience. The culinary strategy was to have something that was familiar and comforting and then give it a hip innovative twist; nothing too outrageous but definitely something that had a unique hook.  There are sooooo many amazing flavors, cultures, cuisines and techniques to explore (Latin being a very tasty one of those).  The menu is geared to showcase a range and evolve as we track emerging trends.  It will be fun to look at Korean BBQ, Indian, North Africa, Mediterranean, ethnic fusion and other options which will fit our culinary strategy.

Some current menu examples are:

Kansas City homage

  • KC Q taco
  • KC torta

Cali/West Coast

  • Cali taco
  • Crispy Avocado taco
  • Pink Lady taco

Latin/Hispanic

  • Conquistador taco
  • Traffic Jam taco
  • Chipz

Mexican

  • BFF taco
  • Fundido Sirloin taco
  • Migas taco
  • Agua Frescas

Southeast Asia

  • Thai Me Up salad
  • Citrus Crunch Chicken (was actually like a PF Chang’s crispy, sweet/spicy tossed chicken)

Artisan

  • Barking Pig taco (which has become a fan fav and seems like our signature taco)

What made you decide to work with local vendors?

There is a wise saying: “a chef is only as good as the ingredients they use.”  Point blank, it is what we all should be doing as chefs, forming partnerships within our region and wrapping our arms around quality…. right?  Kinda goes at the core of our DNA as a chef.  With that said though, local has no impact if you don’t back that up with consistent great tasting food (the food has got to taste good or guests won’t come back)!  It goes beyond supporting local, or local economics or for those getting on board due to consumer demand or pressure.  It is the story behind the source which captivates me and will captivate our Unforked guests.

Working with local vendors is about a personal philosophy and way of life.  It starts with exploring what artisan craftsmanship exists in the surrounding area.  I start with the goal of ascertaining the highest quality offerings, exploring the sourcing options and then I figure out the pricing & how it works on the menu.  It is important to craft a relationship with the people growing/producing your food.  One needs to be diligent, figure out the distribution and carve out the time to let these relationships develop naturally.

First – I guess one must define local or what it means for their business.  Seems placing miles is a bit constrictive.  Some look at miles such as a 150 mile radius, some look statewide & into surrounding states and some look at regions.  Go with what feels right to your operation.

Second – I see local (those things closer to home) applying more so to produce, fruit, honey, cheese, eggs and products of that nature.  This typically encapsulates smaller scale family farms.

Meat and poultry seems more appropriate to look at through a “sustainable lens” vs. a local definition.  We want our animals to be raised where it makes most sense, whether that is 10 or 1,000 miles away.  Look at the optimum growing areas around the country, where the animals are raised with the harmony of the land.

Third – Transparency is key for an operation like ours and for those truly crafting “local and fresh.”  Sharing with your guests where the food comes from and why you purchase what you do is crucial.  Truthfully tout what you do and communicate that effectively in your messaging.  Big or small, let guests know the wonderful things you are doing and what is important to you.  Make this part of your culture and train your staff to share the passion.  Don’t get caught up on using empty sustainable buzz words… let your actions speak loudly, genuinely and clearly.

How would you describe Unforked? Innovative and healthy fast food? Faster slow food?

Definitely innovative!

We are building off the delicious success and mass appeal of Jim Sheridan’s Sheridan’s Custard units.  Jim has created a loyal following via his frozen custard (made fresh EVERY HOUR by the way and he has 21 custard stores in 8 states) and now his vision has merged with artisan tacos, tortas, salads, sides, beer/wine to create Unforked.  Jim took 5 months converting his Overland Park, Kansas Sheridan’s Custard into what is now Unforked.

FLAVOR first!!!!! We create indelible food experiences, for our guests – every day!

A “fast-fresh” concept: exceptional flavors at an exceptional value.  We hope to be 2-3 steps ahead of anything the industry has seen and provide a perpetual source of leadership in foodservice.

Your everyday place/joint: we want to drive velocity and have Unforked be an everyday experience for our guests, not a special occasion or every now and then occurrence.  It is definitely about the experience.

Food is more in the style of: Modern American, emphasizing high quality, seasonal, locally sourced (when possible) food.  The food is wholesome, high in flavor and nutrient dense; so you feel good about what you are eating.

Food takes cues from: regional and international street foods, your fav “joint,” your fav experience when you traveled, etc.

Our food is simplistic in its nature: Nothing frou frou here.   Solid execution of technique, flavors and the final build.  There is a comfort base to each offering (that a guest can connect to) with a subtle and unique twist that creates the “ah-ha” moment.

You’ve been in the business for a long time and you have a very impressive career. Do you still learn from your fellow chefs and epicureans?

Those are kind words for you to say – thank you.

The camaraderie within our profession is infectious.   The beauty is working with one’s peers, meeting new people and re-connecting with old friends.  With an open mind, learning comes at every turn:  from kids, students, chefs, foodies, farmers, operations, magazines, travels, etc.

My advice is to absorb as much as you can and engage all your senses in learning.  The key is to take in all the stimulus and information, filter that into relevant, actionable nuggets of strategic wisdom and then make it your own.  Put your personal style on all you do.

Every day is a day of learning and personal/professional development.  Life and work is supposed to be fun!  My inner chef voice always reminds me, I am only as good as my last meal.  Meaning, appreciate any accolades, but never rest on your laurels.

Treat each meal and moment like it is your very first impression to the world. Strive to exceed expectations.

I have been fortunate to work alongside amazingly talented and creative people throughout my career; all of whom have enriched each culinary program and made me better.  Hopefully, I will continue to garner respect in the industry and be able to make a positive impact on people.

What do you want your legacy to the culinary world to be?

Chef Rob Corliss inspired people (especially kids) to foster a deep connection with their food, environment and health/wellness.

Why did you become a member of Chefs Collaborative?

For:

  • Inspiration
  • Education on sustainability, culinary arts and all things epicurean
  • Mutual sharing of passion and knowledge
  • To develop new friendships
  • To celebrate sustainability
  • To become an active member and lead by example
  • To make a difference and be a catalyst for positive change

Anything you want our members and friends to know about you?

My family is my light.  Am continually amazed by my glorious wife and daughter.  I’m a lucky man!

Gardening is my stress reliever and provides clarity & peace of mind.  Our home garden is our shangri-la.

I have a love for animals and nature.

I would love a personal teaching on whole hog butchering.

I’m a diehard Dallas Cowboys fan… a lifer (you’re gonna either love or hate that).

To learn more about Chef Rob Corliss and his epicurean endeavors, visit All Things Epicurean and Unforked.

Posted by: Mallory

Food and Ag Under the Big Sky

Looking out from the bridge in Missoula

I spent last week at an academic conference for ASFS (Association for the Study of Food and Society… what a mouthful!), entitled “Food and Ag Under the Big Sky”.  I started in the Gastronomy program at Boston University in January with a (somewhat) overzealous enthusiasm for food and “foodie” culture.  I had that glassy-eyed optimism that everything could be organic and local, and delicious, and… inexpensive.  And I never really considered the challenges that producers and consumers, including chefs and farmers, face in making that idyll a reality.

The Ag folks were talking about environmental issues (water usage, pesticides, GMOs) along with cost concerns and policy problems.  The Food folks were talking about sourcing from farmers and distribution issues, along with the same cost concerns and policy problems.  The more academically inclined were talking about the history, philosophy, language, and cultural underpinnings of the food system and how these issues come to be.  I knew I signed up for a liberal arts degree and I’m always eager to learn a little of everything, but I was a little overwhelmed at the vast range of interconnected issues.

The Farmers' Market in Missoula

Looking at the food system as a whole is hard enough as it is, and it’s even more difficult to come to a consensus when there are so many diverse areas trying to work together for positive change.  It seems like everyone latches on to a pet issue, and it’s hard to talk about sustainable water usage with a farm in Texas that has to irrigate, or about the importance of finding organic and non-GMO feed for chickens with a vegan.  It’s also hard to talk with a potential funder about the importance of values and ethics in a business decision that doesn’t produce maximum profit.  This all sounds pretty downtrodden, but I was struck by a speaker that quoted (I think it was) Teddy Roosevelt: “Start small, but start something.”

The good news is, we’re in agreement that things have to change.  We’re in agreement that sustainability is the goal.  And I think there’s evidence that it’s do-able on lot of different scales and in lots of ways.

Katie Dolph is the National Summit Intern at the Chefs Collaborative.

Posted by: Chefs Collaborative

Eating and Traveling’s Newest Trend: Agritourism

As a college student, or rather, as a college aged student who chose to leave school and do a little…traveling, I spent some time living in Italy. When I say living, I mostly mean eating. Everything in Italy tastes amazing: the tomatoes actually taste like tomatoes (for those of you who’ve forgotten: as sweet as sunshine but with a tart little bite), cheese melts in your mouth, and the meat actually tastes like meat. Food was fresher; it’s common for restaurants to purchase their produce from farms (in fact, it often comes from family farms) and people actually go to veg markets on a daily basis instead of doing a weekly bulk buy (as I have to admit, I myself am guilty of) Someone once told me that Europeans shop on a daily basis because they got refrigeration later than us Americans did and were used to buying in small amounts so food didn’t spoil. Now, I can’t really say I think that’s true but for whatever reasons, eating fresher, if not local, food is definitely a more common trend across the pond.

This became even more apparent to me when I went to visit a friend’s family in their “agrotourismo” called Spannochia, a Tuscan farm where lucky visitors (and yes, I was one of them!) stay in the old (think really, really old) farmhouses and bask in the glorious food from the farm. The farm offers three meals a day and everything, and I mean everything, comes from the farm. Eggs from the chickens for breakfast, simmering soups made from the vegetable garden for lunch, pizza made in the brick oven and “wild” boar ragu served over fresh pasta, even wine pressed from the farm’s grapes. I put wild in quotes because the pigs were actually also farm raised, and yes, I did see the piggies and no, I have never had a problem with eating meat, even if I’ve made it’s acquaintance before my meal. One of the biggest things I took away from the farm, in fact, is that everything we ate came from nature and was good for us (this coming from a life long meat eater-sorry to all of you veggies out there!). Not to get all sappy on you, but it was truly an altering experience that made me feel a little bit more in tune with my own body and closer to nature. There’s something very fulfilling about picking a tomato, tossing it into a pan with homemade olive oil, hearing it pop and sizzle and then tasting it, really tasting it. I was very sad to leave Spannocchia at the end of my visit, and still hope to go back one day.

Needless to say, I was very pleased to come across an article in the The New York Times recently, highlighting a handful of farms that have begun supplementing their (sadly meager) incomes with agritourism. I had only really heard of this in Italy; it can be a challenge when it comes to insurance etc to become a “tourist destination” and this often scares farmers off. However, with the current economic state, it has become apparent to many small, “mom and pop” farms, that they need to open up their farmhouses. What better way to do it than to share their own lifestyle? While this operation is still pretty small, several farms are offering rustic accommodation along with “farm experiences” (think veg picking etc), farm culinary 101 classes and the best part: fresh food! Foodies and adventurous, curious travelers rejoice; agritourism is making an appearance on this side of the pond!

Posted by: Mallory

Adventures in oysters, part 1.

Beginning with a  search for oysters in the news,  I learned the basics of the key regions oysters come from, the basic history of the oyster from the Jurassic age to now, the culture of shucking and catching the creatures, and even the aphrodisiac qualities associated with eating oysters.

Next stop, the public library, where I proceeded to check out every book on oysters they had. These ranged from cookbooks, to scientific documentation of the North West Olympic oyster, to classics like The Oysters of Lochariaquer written by Elinor Clark in 1959. The range of books served several purposes. I wanted to not only learn about the need for sustainable practices related to the growing and farming of oysters, but the culture that surrounds the industry.

This led  me to the conclusion that cooking my own oysters was an essential part of my oyster education.  I asked the fish man at my farmers market if he had any locally harvested oysters I could try. He had bags of the little creatures, one of which I was happy to take home with me, along with with dreams of the most decadent Oysters Rockefeller dancing in my head.

Plopping open a promising looking cookbook from my library trip, I realized I had forgotten one little detail… oysters have to be shucked.  As a native Northwesterner I was  embarrassed I had overlooked this part of my task. (also that I had never actually had to shuck an oyster myself!)

Flipping quickly to the beginning of the oyster chapter in my cookbook there was a short guide on how to shuck oysters for amateurs. Suggesting against using an oyster knife, the author prompted his readers to use a flat head screw driver instead. So I did. The results were not pretty and a pair of needle nose pliers was involved. Between myself and my father, we were able to shuck all six oysters without losing ALL of their acclaimed liquor! Not a small feat in my opinion! The final result, of pan-roasted oysters with barbeque sauce,  was not too shabby either.

–Morgan Houk, Summer research and writing intern

Posted by: LeighB

Meet Mallory, our new communications and development intern


A little bit about me…

Some people call me a social media mistress, others call me a maniacal foodie. You can call me Mallory, Chefs Collaborative’s newest Communications Intern. I hail from an itty bitty town in Connecticut but went to college at Boston University and have been an adopted Bostonian ever since. I studied Art History and Anthropology in college (mostly because I like to look at art and talk about people) which led to an unhealthy obsession with travel which I indulged in, of course. After graduating in 2009, I set off on a series of adventures throughout Europe, Asia, and the Caribbean working as a travel writer and professional Facebooker (see? social media mistress!). Believe me, it sounds way more glamorous than it actually was. While I loved writing about all of my adventures whether they were sailing across seas or scaling terrifyingly steep mountains in Switzerland, I realized that my favorite thing to do was EAT. I get the greatest of thrills when I arrive in a new place and the first thing I get to do is go to the grocery store. I am intrigued by local flavors because I truly believe that a culture is defined by what they eat, how they prepare it, and how they consume it (there you go, the Anthropologist in me is coming out!) Plus I just really love eating new foods-who doesn’t? The most important thing I took from my travel-eating is that the fresher the food and the more local it is, the better it tastes-an epiphany!-and how much more common this is in other parts of the world. Why don’t more people eat what is grown in their back yard? Many of the places I have visited live this sustainable lifestyle out of necessity (no Costco!) yet the flavors in their food and the cultural connection to creating/consuming food is so strong. We can do this too.

I am committed to learning about cultures through their food and encouraging my own peers to truly become what they eat. I truly feel that by eating locally, we can create a sustainable community that will nurture us in return! I’m an avid adventurer, an aspiring foodie, an amateur baker and have an adventurous spirit that never lets me down. While traveling the world and experiencing new cultures through their food has (and always will be) one of the most impressive experiences, encouraging my peers to embrace a “local lifestyle” at home has truly become my passion.  I am really looking forward to contributing my passion for sustainability and the culinary industry at large, to Chefs Collaborative and learning all I can from this organization.

Posted by: Mallory

Local, Sustainable Suds

Sustainability-minded beer aficionados will be pleased to hear that local, sustainable and delicious (in all senses of the word) will be making its way into suds brewed near you. A few weeks ago, I spotted a piece on Civil Eats on how organic hops, previously only available from international sources, are starting to come our way from the Pacific Northwest. Some contractual complications, as well as a steep learning curve to make the transition from local to organic are in the mix, but many stakeholders seem up to the challenge.

This week I caught an article that traces the farm to table movement – not in terms of protein, produce, or legumes – but in terms of grains, which are getting brewed and fermented into an all-local beer. These two articles are a cool reminder of how farmers, brewers and consumers can positively affect a product’s supply chain so that everybody involved benefits.

Posted by: Jen

Putting the Me in Meat

I’ve been reading a lot more about sustainable meat production while working with Chefs Collaborative and I want to share some of the press I’ve been reading lately as well as some of my personal experiences with sustainable meat as motivation for chefs and farmers to keep up the good work.

1. The cutest (and tastiest) lambs

Next door to Anne Amie Vineyards, in Oregon, is a family that has been raising sheep and cows and horses for 20 some odd years.  On my way to work at the winery, I would creep up the driveway everyday, oggling the baby sheep, and laughing at the llama that stood guard.  From harvest to bud break, the sheep were let into the vineyard to graze, effectively tidying the detritus from harvest and mowing while “fertilizing.”  The second year I worked there, I discovered that the staff pooled cash to buy a couple lambs’ worth of meat whenever the neighbors harvested a few.  It was the first time I’d heard of this sort of practice – meat straight from a farmer.  I brought my cash, and the next day there were no sheep in the front pasture, but a box of freshly butchered meat wrapped in brown paper and labelled awaited me in the cooler.  I took it home and carefully unwrapped a package of chops.  They were the lightest, brightest pink I’ve ever seen and the fat was a brilliant sticky white.  I seared them and we ate them with roasted roots and an Estate Pinot Noir from the same vineyard the lambs had grazed in.  It was the best lamb I’ve ever eaten; maybe one of the best meals.  I felt a twinge of sadness knowing that there were fewer baby sheep, but there were more again the following spring.  And I knew that they ate well, were loved, and were harvested with care.  Now I have a really hard time buying lamb that’s shipped from elsewhere, and I refuse to buy non-domestic at restaurants.  I would rather abstain from meat than have something that I can’t connect with.

2. Turkey time

Last year, while I was living in Nevada, my family started participating in a farm share program at Girl Farm, outside of Reno.  Every so often, they’d send out an email for volunteers to help plant garlic, or harvest chickens.  Around Thanksgiving, they invited the families who requested Turkeys to come out and harvest their own.  Sixteen families participated with at least one volunteer.  We showed up at 7am on a snowy day and helped separate the keepers for breeding and the Turkey dinners.

Turkeys, if you’ve never hung out with them, are hilarious.  They roam around in groups, like little kids playing soccer.   They would swarm around and cluck at me, tilting their heads, as if looking for a response.  They’d peck at the grommets on my jeans.  When they posture and puff up, they hold their breath and their faces eventually turn blue, so they start to let out little puffs of air that sound like pressured air hose spurts. They’re downright goofy.  So I was a little sad to see them go.  That being said, I’m not squeamish and I was up to the task.

Girl Farm is small and still getting started with a lot of things, so we did everything by hand, even the plucking.  I was amazed by how gentle everyone was, and how quiet the turkeys were.  Everything went smoothly and no one was shocked or traumatized.  The first gizzard we opened had full size fence staples and a few small nails in it and everyone laughed.  Wendy asked if her pliers were in there, too.  After I went through the process start to finish, I weighed my turkey.  9 pounds.  I was stunned.  Growing up, we almost always had 20lb. turkeys at Thanksgiving for our enormous family.  I asked Wendy how they would ever get Turkeys that were 20 lbs. The ones that were 9 lbs. seemed huge already.  They wouldn’t.

That turkey was so flavorful that I don’t think I could ever eat turkey from a grocery store again.  It left a profound impression on me.  So I was particularly moved by a blog post on Serious Eats.
The meat debate is forever ongoing.  When I started this last semester in the Gastronomy program at BU, one of the most fiery debates was over vegetarianism and veganism.  How can someone be serious about food if they rule out the vast portion of cuisine that meat and dairy comprise?  How can someone knowingly eat meat that is unsustainable and unethical?  I can’t see myself doing either.  I love meat.  I always have. I’ve never considered being vegetarian, much less vegan, so I am intrigued by one of Mark Bittman’s latest articles.  It seems to me that education is key to changing the direction of our food system, but direct connection with individual consumers (in the way that I’ve experienced it) is incredibly laborious and difficult to achieve.  That’s just another good reason for Chefs to set a good example and bring the farm to the table.  Keep up the good work!

Katie Dolph is a Communications and Outreach Intern with the Chefs Collaborative.

Posted by: Chefs Collaborative

Meet Morgan, our summer research and writing intern

Why I am who I am:

Born and raised on Bainbridge Island, Washington, my move to Wellesley, Massachusetts to attend Babson College was a huge cultural leap. Such an abrupt shift from the cultural bubble of Bainbridge Island showed me a world similar in many ways and so different in many others. My classmates and professors walked and talked faster than I, and the comforts of Bainbridge were far away.

However, in this shift I began to realize the incredible luck I had as child to grow up with the freedom to explore my natural landscape. On one small island in Puget Sound were miles and miles of beaches, forests, farms, and even wetlands. I was always aware I had a unique childhood, but I never quite grasped how unique until meeting classmates from nearly every state and seemingly every country of the world!

I realized within just a few days at Babson how different all of these student’s experiences were. It took me a little longer to realize, even with all of the differences and conflicts our communities had to separate them, a strong food culture was a common thread that brought us together. Whether it was respecting a roommate’s fast during Ramadan, trying a neighbor’s excessively spicy homemade crackers sent from family in India, or sharing a love of jalapeño pizza with a friend from Ghana, I was constantly able to use both differences and similarities in food cultures to relate to people around me.

An instilled respect for community, human and wild, and a respect for the uniting properties of food has transformed into a passion for creating opportunity for others to feel the same passion towards their food as I do.

Why I want to work with Chefs Collaborative:

I saw Chefs Collaborative as an amazing place to start integrating my passion for the natural world and food cultures into meaningful and impactful results. The culinary field is an ideal place for a community to share with others their unique relationship with local and seasonal products. Working with producers and chefs to convey this message seems to me like an incredible source of change.

What I can bring to the table:

Approaching the world of social change as a business major with a focus in entrepreneurship and a rediscovered passion for writing and communicating has taken me on many turbulent journeys. I have traversed through lessons on efficiency at all costs and profits as king, and ended up on the other side with a deep understanding of what my passion is up against. A childhood of lessons about connection to a place and personal expression brings me to a place that I hope to merge my two sets of skills to produce helpful and effective materials for the Chefs Collaborative network.

I will be researching, writing and blogging all summer and hope to meet and learn from many of you along the way! Feel free to email me at morgan@chefscollaborative.org.

Posted by: LeighB