Chefs Collaborative

Last weekend I had the opportunity to join our friends at the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy for their annual conference in Kalamazoo, Michigan.  The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC) works to promote and preserve heritage breeds of livestock and is a partner with Chefs Collaborative and Slow Food USA in the Renewing America’s Food Traditions project.  Livestock producers from around the country gathered at Tillers International to attend workshops on both raising and marketing these traditional breeds.  ALBC’s work is more important than ever before as modern food production favors specialized breeds that are selected for maximum output in confined living operations.

Chef Matthew and ALBC Producers

Chefs Collaborative was excited to partner with ALBC on two workshops throughout the conference, including a pig breakdown led by chef Matthew Millar of Journeyman restaurant in Fennville, Michigan.  We met at Zazio’s restaurant in the Radisson Hotel in downtown Kalamazoo.  Matthew broke down at 150 pound Tamworth pig that had been donated by ALBC producer Nila Robinson of Shiocton, Wisconsin.

Chefs aren’t the only ones interested in learning how to work with whole animals.  Producers are also interested in what happens to their animals once they leave the slaughterhouse and arrive at a chefs’ door.  Marjorie Bender, the Research & Technical Programs Director for ALBC, facilitated an engaging dialogue between the audience and chef Matt.  Questions regarding food safety, direct marketing, and culinary preparations were plenty.

The highlight of the day was the preparation of the two tenderloins (yes there are only two per animal) by Judd, a line young cook, at Zazio’s.  The tenderloins were lightly seasoned with a rosemary sea salt and seared to perfection.  Many of the workshop attendees had never eated pork so lightly prepared and realized immediately what a special product they have.  Many of these breeds have such beautiful and distinct flavors that preparation and seasoning is minimal.

Chef Judd seasons tenderloins

The remaining cuts were brought to chef Julie Stanley’s Food Dance Cafe, where the conferences’ inaugural dinner was taking place.  The menu featured Nila’s Tamworth along with Giant Chinchilla Rabbit, Red Poll Beef, and Bourbon Red Turkey.

It was a real treat getting to see and taste, all of these beautiful animals and meet the producers who work so hard to bring heritage varieties back to our family farms and tables.  To learn about the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy and their producers, visit www.albc-usa.org.

Slow Food Nation put on an amazing celebration of the local, sustainable, delicious food we all value – with a beautiful Victory Garden in front of City Hall the most moving and memorable element.  It convinced me it’s time to put a kitchen garden of my own in my backyard.  And the whole event inspired me to redouble my efforts here at Chefs Collaborative.

The event was kicked off with a plenary session called, “The World Food Crisis.”  Moderated by Michael Pollan and featuring Vandana Shiva, Carlo Petrini, Raj Patel, and Corby Kummer, this opening discussion placed our work in the U.S. to promote a more sustainable food supply in the context of a global movement.  It looked at how U.S. international policies adversely impact the availability of local, fresh, healthy food in developing countries.  For example, when our country provides poor quality grains to developing countries at low prices local farmers can’t compete.  This has relevance for our own policies here at home – especially when it comes to farm subsidies, which benefit industrial farms and have consequences for the survival of mid-size and small farms.

I was moved to learn about the Bay Area Community Services “meals on wheels” program where they switched to a “Farm to Table” model, which costs more, but not much more.  With fresh local food, the ingredients cost 5 cents more per meal.  The kicker is this: With every meal comes a little envelope, into which people are gently encouraged to place a donation if they can, to help cover costs.  In the three months since the farm to table service started, donations have gone up by $20,000 – a 23% increase.  This is from the poorest people in the Bay Area, in the middle of an economic crisis.  This says something about people’s willingness to pay for fresh, healthy food and the need for educating people about the real cost of food.

And finally, I walked away with a greater understanding that for a new food system to be successful – one that does a better job distributing local, fresh food – we need two things in place:  1) “Right relationships,” where each player has a stake in the well being of others, and; 2) An infrastructure to support distribution of local, sustainable products.

Chefs Collaborative views chefs as vital conduits for changing our food system.  We are part of a greater movement to promote a more sustainable food supply and national events like Slow Food Nation that bring stakeholders and experts together provides valuable opportunities for sharing new ideas and inspiring one another.  Hats off to the organizers of Slow Food Nation!

Melissa Kogut, Executive Director